Bread has been a staple food in many cultures for a really long time, but gluten intolerance has become a significant issue in recent decades. This goes hand-in-hand with fast-rise bread (think the stuff you buy in the supermarket and in many bakeries).
In the early 20th century, new rising agents made it possible for bakeries to make bread in a matter of hours. Fewer workers and fewer hours were needed to create such breads and the change from traditionally fermented breads to ‘fast-rise’ breads happened quickly.
Why? Much cheaper.
Unfortunately, the fast-rise breads do not rely on fermentation at all. Flour basically became a filler and the big players (supermarket breads especially) only needed flour that had an extended shelf-life and the right colour; just flour and lots of it. The flavour and the nutritional profile of the grain became irrelevant and grain-growers were forced to respond by growing grain for its yield and little else. The life inside of the wheat became a hindrance to shelf-life and the flour was treated accordingly. The gluten in fast-rise breads is not broken down, or ‘pre-digested’ by the enzymes naturally occurring in wheat. Wild yeasts are not able to bring out the flavour, lower the GI, or do any of the work that makes sourdough such a healthy food. The ‘gluten’ proteins in such breads are different and more likely to provoke a reaction in the human gut.
supermarket wholemeal bread
Proper sourdough or naturally leavened bread does not rely on the addition of yeast or proving agents, nor other chemical support crew; the basic ingredients are flour, water, salt and time. It takes 36-48 hours for the fermentation process to create such a dough. That’s why, allergenically speaking, most people can eat it.
Coeliacs know to be mindful that wheat flours and other sources of gluten will be loose in the air of any bakery (except gluten-free ones which have strict conditions to guarantee their product), but if you or your children have egg, dairy, soy or gluten intolerances (to name some of the most common), sourdough could work for you.
Unfortunately, there are no sourdough labeling requirements in place in New Zealand. Many bakeries and supermarkets sell breads labelled ‘sourdough’ which are actually just fast-rise breads made from premixes and shaped to look like traditional breads. Once you know real sourdough, you’ll be able to see the difference. Properly fermented food can’t be imitated. Meanwhile, the ingredients list and the fermentation time are dead giveaways, so ask first.
If you want to read more:
https://www.alternet.org/2013/06/gluten-intolerance/
Bread and the Principles of Bread Making, Helen W Atwater (1900) - available online - makes for interesting reading, too.
There are also loads of really interesting podcasts out there about the grain movement, the development of seed banks, and sourdough more generally.
Supermarket white bread
Supermarket brioche